These registration steps must be completed PRIOR to student-athletes participating in ANY practices. 


Costs to Participate

These costs do not include: tr​avel to/from practices and races; lodging, bike and bike supplies, helmet, etc.


Sponsor Information

Sponsor Letter        Sponsor Levels


TEAM FEES

​Skyridge Team Fee is $425  (see no. 2 above for payment)        

Includes: Team kit, skilled instruction, team equipment and supplies, team banquet and awards, race day support & food, bike shop discounts.

SPONSORSHIPS : We need team sponsors! Please contact businesses to request sponsorships. In addition to helping our mountain bike team, they receive a few perks such as logo placement on our jersey and tent wall. Below is a breakdown of what discount you will receive for bringing in sponsors.

$500 Sponsorship = $100 off team fees

​$750 Sponsorship = $175 off team fees

$1,000 Sponsorship = $250 off team fees

$1,500 Sponsorship = $425 off team fees 

For every $250 you bring in above $1,500, we will give you an additional $25 in team clothing credit for you or your family to use. We will combine all of your sponsors you bring in for your credits towards your team fees,i.e, (1) $250 sponsor & (1) $750 sponsor = $1,000 total sponsor money for a team credit of $250.​​​

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LEAGUE FEES

Utah League Fee is $360 (see no. 5 above for payment) deadline June 1.

This is a single, one-time-payment that covers all practices, regional races, and any other Utah High School Cycling League events during the season. The State Championship is now a qualifying race and does not cost an additional fee.

This fee is required to participate on the team.

More info: https://www.utahmtb.org/pitzone​​​

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Equipment & Supplies

Bike, helmet, spare tubes, multi-tool, hand pump, and a water bottle are mandatory!  All riders must complete a bike and equipment check with one of the coaches prior to participating on the team.


Here is some basic information that we have put together that can help guide you in your decision:

Starting at the beginning, there are three basic types of mountain bike:

Rigid - These bikes are as they sound - rigid forks and frames, no suspension.

Hard tail - These bikes have front suspension forks and rigid frames.

Full suspension - Again as it sounds, these bikes have suspension forks as well as frames with a rear shock.


The rigid bikes can be very light, but can also beat you up a bit as your body has to absorb more bumps when there is no suspension. Full suspension bikes are far more comfortable all around trail riding and particularly downhill, but are heavier. You can get lightweight full suspension bikes, but it comes at a cost. Hard tail bikes are the happy medium for cross country racing. They still have that suspension fork up front to absorb the bumps from roots, rocks and logs but because they don’t have the suspension out back, the bikes can be had much lighter and at lower cost.


Wheel size is another area where you will find multiple choices. For a long time, 26” wheels were what mountain bikes had. It was the only choice, so it was an easy one. That size has been replaced by more modern standards and is typically only found on heavier downhill racing bikes. The 29” wheel has become more or less a standard for cross country racing and trail bikes. These wheels are larger and are able to roll over roots, rocks and logs better than the smaller 26” wheels were able to do. They also keep their momentum better and are faster rolling. The other wheel size to consider is 27.5”. These wheels are generally considered to be able to accelerate faster and be a bit more nimble feeling in the steering response, but still better able to handle the roots, rocks and logs. For cross country bikes and trail bikes, you will see both wheel sizes - you will tend to see more 29” wheels on cross country race bikes and 27.5” wheels on trail/all mountain bikes. But you can’t really go wrong with either choice, you would need to ride them to see which you prefer.


Then we come to the differing models of bikes that are designed for differing purposes. For the purposes of our team, you will be happiest to stay with a cross country racing or trail type bike.


CROSS-COUNTRY BIKES

Also referred to as XC mountain bikes, cross-country mountain bikes are actually a lightweight type of trail bike. They focus more on climbing prowess and higher speeds. These bikes are great if you want to cover a lot of ground quickly and make fast ascents.  Cross-country mountain bikes have an efficient design and low weight. Many also have steeper head angles (the angle between the head tube and the ground), which makes the bike turn faster and better at climbing. This can, however, also make it harder to control the bike on steep descents. Keep this in mind. They’re ideal for climbing and fast trails.  These bikes typically have short travel suspension forks, typically 100 mm, and if full suspension will be the same 100 mm travel in the rear shock.  When it comes to all-out single track speed, there is nothing like a short-travel cross-country bike. They are not built for high impact jumping and landing, but instead for climbing and taking tight corners.


TRAIL BIKES

This specific category of bike isn’t related to any particular kind of racing. It can be used for pretty much everything. Trail bikes are great for everything from climbing and descending to meeting up with friends and simply having a bunch of fun outdoors.  They have more relaxed angles, which can give the rider more confidence during descents. Trail bikes also have wider handlebars and shorter stems while their tires feature more aggressive treads. This is a mountain bike that can do it all, emphasizing on a combination of decent overall weight, fun and efficiency.  Generally they are slightly heavier than XC bikes, but can still be very light. They will generally be full suspension bikes that vary in suspension travel lengths, but most will fall between 120 mm - 140 mm front and rear.


Most mountain bikes you see at the shop will fall into cross country and trail categories. But it’s nice to know the difference. Not that most people will ever be able to tell the difference.  While the above is already quite a bit to think about, it is fairly straightforward and as you look at  and familiarize yourself with the models available you will understand the differences and find where you are comfortable. But from here the choices in the builds in each model can make your head spin.


When it comes to the bike’s components (the brakes, shifting mechanisms, chains, wheels, etc,) there are many choices that range from very cheap to very expensive. Generally, the difference between a solid quality drive-train and the far more expensive cousin is weight.  We won’t break down all the component groups here as it would be far too long, this is where some research and/or talking to one of our local shops or one of your coaches will give you some guidance. One model of bike can vary in price as much as $4000 pretty quickly just based on the build level components, and most people won’t feel the difference.


- Do I need a women’s mountain bike if I’m female?

As with everything it’s personal choice. Being female doesn’t mean you have to buy female bikes. For the most part, the bikes are the same.  The main difference is in the geometry and design of the frame. Female bikes are designed around the idea that women generally have longer legs, shorter torsos and are lighter than men. This means the suspension doesn’t need to do as much work, and as such can get away without having as heavy duty components as men’s bike do, although this doesn’t necessarily mean the bike does so. The only other differences may come in a different saddle design or shorter handlebars.